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Picking out a new set of tires for your vehicle can be a daunting decision. With so many varying measurements, product lines, and tread types, this process can be overwhelming for even the most seasoned hobbyists.

In this article, we’ll cover the differences between the most common types of tires on the market, why these differences matter, and how to choose the right option for both you and your vehicle!

Types of Tires

When searching for a set of tires for your vehicle, you may encounter various “categories” of tire product lines such as all-season, summer/performance, winter, and all-terrain. Each of these descriptors denotes a tire with a certain use case with a significant impact on performance, durability, and inclement-weather traction. 

All-Season Tires

One of the most popular categories of tires for the average consumer is all-season tires. These tires strike a middle ground between the warm-weather performance of a summer tire and the wet-weather safety and control of a winter tire. While all-seasons will do neither of these as well as the tires specifically developed for those conditions, the versatility of an all-season means you may not have to have your tires switched out for the winter and summer seasons. 

All-season tires generally have a directional tread pattern, which is where the sipes (channels within the tread) create a V-shaped pattern. This siping allows for water to make its way through these channels and out the side of the tire, preventing water from accumulating under the tire’s contact patch and creating a slippery barrier between your tires and the road surface. 

There’s a reason all-season tires are so popular. This versatility and durability makes them perfect choices for commuter vehicles used on a regular basis. 

Summer/Performance Tires

As the name implies, summer tires are produced with the intention of warm-weather driving, which allows the manufacturer to focus much more on dry road performance. Summer tires also generally use a softer rubber, giving you superior grip in the right conditions. Oftentimes these are sold as “performance” tires, as they provide the most amount of traction for spirited driving. 

While unmatched in warm weather, summer tires are not produced with inclement weather in mind, and the softer tread along with non-directional siping means traction will be hard to come by in conditions like rain, ice, or snow. 

For this reason, summer/performance tires are best used on vehicles that only see use during the sunny months, such as a weekend sports car or convertible. It may be possible to run summer tires year-round in areas where rainfall is few and far between even in the winter, although the rate of wear will be much faster than that of an all-season option. 

Grand Touring Tires

Grand touring tires are designed to strike a middle ground between the year-round traction of an all-season and the responsive handling of a summer tire. This makes them perfectly suited for luxury or performance vehicles used for daily driving or long trips. 

While on the higher end price-wise, grand touring tires provide a balance between comfort, performance, and rainy weather capability that you won’t find in any other segment of the market.

All-Terrain Tires

All-terrain tires are designed to handle both the road and the low-traction and highly uneven surfaces of off-road trails. Aggressive tread design and wide siping allow for the tires to sink into loose road surfaces such as sand, dirt, and gravel. 

Though this tread allows for the tires to provide traction on various terrains, it can also cause some issues for road driving. The deep siping and aggressive tread pattern allow for more air to pass through, making these tires much louder on the street. This problem is worsened on the highway and can make for an annoying background drone on a long trip. 

Not only does noise become an issue on the streets, so does wear and tear. The soft rubber compound used for all-terrain tires degrades quickly over asphalt and could leave you in need of new tires quicker than traditional tire options. 

This isn’t to say that all-terrain tires can’t handle a little highway driving. They’re still great options for those who use their trucks or SUVs for occasional off-road trails or outdoor activities that require a more capable tire. 

Mud-Terrain Tires

Mud-terrain tires take all-terrain tread to the extreme with deep siping and large tread blocks, allowing them to find traction in even the worst of conditions. A reinforced casing and durable sidewalls protect the tire from sharp rock and debris damage while on the trails, allowing mud-terrain tires to take on situations that other tires may fail in.

While they suffer from the same road noise issue as all-terrain tires, mud-terrain options provide a superior level of off-road performance while still being viable on the highway when needed. Mud-terrain tires are not intended for regular road use though, and will wear rapidly compared to traditional road tires. Weather is another limiting factor of these tires, as the low number of sipes means they can’t disperse water as quickly as an all-season tire and could become dangerous in heavy rain.

If you’re a serious off-road fanatic, mud-terrain tires provide you with the ultimate level of traction over many different surfaces. For other use cases though, they really aren’t that practical.

Competition/Track Tires

If practicality and low prices aren’t your thing, competition tires offer the ultimate level of consumer tire performance for those who are looking for a truly track-focused tire option. The soft rubber and minimal siping give the tire the most surface area to produce traction, allowing the vehicle to stay grounded around corners at high speed.

While superior in every area of performance, this increased dry-weather traction comes at a tradeoff. Competition tires lack the proper siping to be used on wet roads or other low-traction surfaces, making them dangerous anywhere but perfectly dry asphalt. The soft rubber compound also means that these tires will degrade much quicker than more durable tires, which could leave you in need of a replacement much sooner than you were hoping. Replacements aren’t cheap either, as track tires will generally run a much higher price than all-seasons or even regular performance tires. 

Because of these factors, track tires are best used in, well… track cars. If you can justify the price tag, competition tires provide the ultimate level of performance for those days when you need the absolute most from your vehicle.

Tires at Matson Point S

No matter what you use your vehicle for, the tire experts at Matson Point S in Riverton can help you pick the perfect option for you (and your wallet). Give us a call today to speak with our friendly team or schedule your appointment online!

For many, boating is the activity of the summer. Owning a boat opens a whole world of outdoor recreation including fishing, water sports, swimming, and more. Not to mention, spending a day out on the water is a great way to relax, disconnect from the busyness of day-to-day life, and spend time in nature. 

While having fun on the water, it’s important to stay safe. Operating a boat is very different from other vehicles, and with it comes specific terminology that can be confusing to a novice boater. The terms “port” and “starboard” are thrown around a lot if you’ve spent any time on the water. You‘ve also probably heard these terms in movies. But what do they mean? In this article, we are going to explain what port and starboard mean, their history, and why it’s important to know them when you are out on the water. 

History and Meaning of the Term Port

Port side refers to the left-hand side of a boat when you are looking toward the bow (front). 

Since boats at the time had their steering ore on the starboard side, the left side was typically where people and goods were unloaded and loaded. Originally, the term used for the left side was larboard, which is a derivative of the word ladeboard. Lade is a middle english word which means “load”. Larboard and starboard sounded very similar, so the term port was eventually adopted, first by the Royal Navy in 1844, then the US navy in 1846 to avoid confusion. 

History and Meaning of the Term Starboard

Starboard is the right-hand side of the boat when looking toward the bow. Starboard is an evolution of old English words steor and bord combined to steorbord, which means steering side. Boats from this time period were steered by an oar which was situated on the right side of the boat. Overtime, these phrases morphed into starboard, and even when boat steering systems changed, they still referred to the right-hand side.

Why Not Use “Left” and “Right”?

You might be wondering, why don’t mariners just use right and left when referring to the sides of their boat? There’s a logical explanation for this. Left and right are subjective depending on where you are standing or looking. By using specific terms for each side of the vessel, it’s always clear what someone is referring to regardless of the boat’s orientation on the water or the direction someone is facing. 

Conclusion

Remembering your portside from your starboard side is easy once you know what they mean. Next time you get out on the water, you’ll never forget the meaning of port and starboard. You’ll also have a bit of nautical history to share with your passengers. 

Marine Services at Matson Point S in Riverton

Having trouble with your boat? Matson Point S Auto and Marine is Riverton’s premiere marine service center. Our experienced marine techs can handle everything from seasonal maintenance and winterization to in-depth mechanical repairs and diagnostics. Give us a call or schedule an appointment online today!

At its core, boat propulsion is simple. Whether a boat is propelled by a water jet or a propeller, a pressure difference is created, providing the required thrust to move the boat through the water. 

There are a wide range of propulsion systems on modern watercraft, incorporating different technologies and layouts to achieve optimal performance. Inboard, outboard, and sterndrive are the most commonly seen designs.

The sterndrive, also known as an inboard/outboard, incorporates elements of both inboard drives and outboard drives, and relies on a component called the lower unit to transfer the engine’s power into the thrust needed for the boat to move. 

Like any component, the lower unit requires upkeep and maintenance to avoid issues. In this article, we will dive into what a lower unit is, how it works, and some maintenance tips to keep your boat issue-free all summer. 

What is a Lower Unit?

The lower unit (sometimes called a gear case) is not limited to boats with a sterndrive engine setup. Outboard engines have a lower unit as well, which is part of the entire outboard engine assembly. When looking at an outboard engine, the long extension with the propeller on the end is considered the lower unit. 

Sterndrive boats, which utilize a larger engine onboard, rely on a separate piece of machinery called an outdrive to power the propeller. If you look at a stern drive boat out of the water, you will see something similar to an outboard engine hanging off the back. the outdrive connects to the engine, which is located on the boat. In a sterndrive application, the lower unit is at the bottom of the outdrive, just behind the propeller.

What Does a Lower Unit Do On a Boat?

The lower unit allows for power transfer from the engine to the propeller, similar to a transmission on a car. A major difference here though is the lack of differing gear ratios. Typically, boats have a single forward gear, single reverse gear, and neutral. The outdrive also pivots in response to steering inputs, and the lower unit usually has a rudder below the propeller, allowing the boat to steer.

The outdrive receives power from the engine via an input shaft where the unit connects to the boat. Power is sent through the top of the outdrive and down to the lower unit through gears and drive shafts, eventually turning the propeller.

On some boats, the lower unit supplies the engine with cold water to keep it at a safe operating temperature. An impeller draws in water from the lake or river, pumping it through the engine (in the same way coolant is cycled through the engine of a car).

Lower Unit Common Problems

Keeping up on regular maintenance and following proper winterization steps will help prevent lower unit damage, but issues can arise for even the most diligent boat owners.

Water in the Gear Case

If the oil in your lower unit appears milky, water has made it into the gear case. Usually, a bad seal is to blame. Water can wreak havoc on the internals of a lower unit if it’s present when the temperature gets below freezing since it will expand as it freezes.

Impact Damage

The lower unit typically sits below the bottom (keel) of a boat, increasing the chance of hitting hazards in shallow water. A low-speed impact can result in damage to the propeller, while a more severe collision can damage or destroy the lower unit

Worn Out Impeller

On some sterndrive boats, the impeller is housed in the lower unit. The impeller pumps cold water through the engine, keeping it cool while running. Since the impeller is made out of rubber it will eventually wear out and fail, potentially leading to severe engine damage. You can read our article on impeller replacements here.

Lower Unit Maintenance

The lower unit, like any mechanical component, requires regular maintenance to work right. With only one drive gear, the rotating mechanism inside the lower unit is subjected to lots of stress, and the lubricating oil inside needs to be changed regularly. 

At the end of every boating season, you have the lower unit gear oil changed and add new grease to all grease fittings. 

If you dock your boat on the water during the summer, you may have accumulated buildup on the lower unit. Winterization is the perfect time to remove buildup and clean the lower unit. 

Lower Unit Services at Matson Point S

Whether you are experiencing problems with the lower unit on your boat or need help with winterization, the expert marine technicians at Matson Point S in Riverton Utah are here to help. Give us a call or schedule an appointment online today!

When your car struggles to start up, your first thought is probably “What could this be?” followed by “How much is this going to cost?”. Pinpointing exactly what is causing a no-start condition is tricky. Turning your key to the “on” position begins a complex process behind the scenes, with various components working to instantly provide your vehicle with the necessary fuel, air, and power to begin and sustain combustion. 

While each component has the potential to fail, there are a few that are more likely to cause trouble than the others. One of these is the starter, which as the name implies, is vital to the initial process of starting the car. In this article, we’ll cover what the starter does, the symptoms of starter failure, and what causes one to fail. 

What Does The Starter Do?

Before the engine can begin to create its self-sustaining cycle of combustion, it first has to create the necessary suction to begin pulling in air. Without a consistent flow of air, the fuel will be unable to combust and the engine will not start.

This is the responsibility of the starter, a small electric motor used to spin the flywheel, “turning over” the engine and allowing the intake of air and fuel within the cylinders. Once the engine has begun this process, the starter motor will disengage and let the engine take it from there.

Symptoms of a Bad Starter

While the obvious symptom of a bad starter is, well, the car not starting, there are some more specific signs of impending starter failure that you should be aware of.

Unusual Sounds

One of the most common symptoms of a failing starter motor is a clicking noise while attempting to start the vehicle. However, it’s important to note that even if there is no noticeable sound when turning the key, it could still be an issue with the starter.

Alternatively, a starter on the verge of failure may produce a worrying grinding noise when starting the vehicle. This likely means your starter is on its way out, and should be inspected by a trusted automotive professional to see if replacement is necessary.

Engine Won’t Crank

Of course, without a working starter motor to crank the engine, the vehicle will be unable to fire up even with the assistance of a jumpstart. If a jumpstart does not solve your issue, the issue likely goes beyond a simple dead battery.

Lights Turn On, But The Car Won’t

Another sign that your issue stems from something like a starter or ignition switch, as opposed to your electrical system, is all of the lights on your dash turning on properly when starting the vehicle despite the engine not turning over. If it were to be something like a dead battery, the vehicle would most likely not be able to power the lights completely, causing them to be dim or inoperable. 

Smoke From The Vehicle

As you attempt to turn on the vehicle with a failed starter many times, the starter could potentially overheat and cause or worsen electrical failures around it. In serious cases, it could cause a shorted fuse or wire to smoke.

If you see or smell smoke anywhere from your vehicle, avoid attempting to turn the key again and instead have your vehicle towed to an automotive professional for inspection and service. Desperately turning the key over and over is only more likely to lead to these electrical issues.

Your Starter is Oil Soaked

While many starter problems are caused by their internal failures, another issue can damage your starter, such as an oil leak. 

If your starter is caked in oil, your vehicle likely has an active leak that is allowing oil to drip onto or around the starter. This oil can leak into the sensitive internals of the starter and cause a component to fail, leading to a faulty starter motor. What might have started as a slow and unnoticeable leak can quickly turn into some bad news if given time to cause damage. 

It’s always a good idea to keep an eye on your oil levels, as leaks can cause major problems that go beyond a simple starter failure. 

Starter & Electrical Services in Riverton, Utah

If you’re experiencing trouble starting your vehicle, or any other signs of a failing starter, trust the experts at Matson Point S in Riverton to square your issue away and get your vehicle starting like new! Our experienced technicians have decades of experience working on electrical systems in all makes and models. Give Riverton’s trusted option for auto repair a try and give us a call or schedule online today!

We’ve all been there before. You’re in a rush to get to your destination, trying to get out the door while you still have a shot to make it. And then it hits you… “where are my keys?”

Now in many cases, they’ll turn up within minutes to hours in the most obvious spot possible like always. But what if they don’t? Not having your keys isn’t just an annoyance, it directly interrupts many of your important daily tasks and sidelines you from conveniently getting to most places. What’s the next step?

Type of Keys

The path to getting a replacement depends on the type of key it is. Modern vehicles often use key fobs, which allow you to control certain functions, like locks, windows, trunk/hatch, or even starting the car. Compare this to traditional mechanically cut car keys used in older vehicles, and you can see how the difference in keys and technology may affect the difficulty of replacing them. 

Traditional/Mechanically Cut Keys

Mechanically cut keys are the simplest to replace, as they lack the technology and security measures used in fobs. Since these don’t require any programming or proprietary transponders or sensors, they can be easily replicated by a locksmith or dealer. 

Transponder Keys

Transponder keys look nearly the same as mechanically cut keys and operate similarly too. The only difference, albeit a major one, between the two, is the transponder security chip in the key. This is called the immobilizer chip and prevents the vehicle from being started without it being present. 

Now in most cases, this is a great feature as it requires the key to have been programmed to start the vehicle. This is huge for the security of your vehicle, as it’s much harder for someone to get their hands on a programmed transponder key rather than replicating a mechanically cut key. 

For our purposes though, this transponder only makes replacing your key that much more difficult. Fortunately, most automotive-specific locksmiths can both replicate the key and program a new transponder for the majority of vehicles with a basic transponder system. Other transponder keys may need proprietary programming at a dealership, particularly on higher-end vehicles. 

Key + Fob

If your car key includes a fob with an attached key (such as a switchblade key), having it replaced may be more difficult and expensive than replacing a transponder or mechanically cut key. 

An automotive locksmith may have the ability to recut and program your new key and fob in more basic systems. Depending on the transponder and functionality of the fob, a dealership replacement may be your only option. The added complexity of both the transponder and fob functionality makes some keys impossible to replicate outside of a dealership.

Keyless Fob

It’s not uncommon to see cars nowadays ditch a physical key completely and rely on wireless fobs. Since there’s no mechanical key to replicate, locksmiths won’t be of any help in this situation.

For most smart keys, you’ll need to have a replacement made at the dealership. They also might require proof of ownership to provide you with one. 

This process could take 1-2 days, in which you might need to leave the vehicle at the dealership for programming. 

Cost of Replacement Key

The cost of having your key replaced depends considerably on the type of key and the make and model of the vehicle. Simple mechanically cut keys for older vehicles without transponders can cost as little as $15-$50 for a copy. Compare this to a transponder key that requires chip programming, as these services can range anywhere between $100 to $250.

Fobs are where it can become complicated, as different fobs require different procedures for programming. For a switchblade key replacement, the extra programming required from a locksmith or dealership could cost around $150-$200. 

In general, keyless ignition fobs or smart fobs will be the most expensive of these to replace. Certain vehicles might require dealership programming, whereas others may be able to be replaced by an automotive locksmith. The cost of a new smart fob can run you anywhere from $200-$600.

Electrical Diagnostics in Riverton, Utah

If you’re experiencing issues with your car’s ignition system or wireless key, trust the experts at Matson Point S to diagnose the source of your issue and bring your car back to life! Give us a call or schedule online today.