Author: dev

It can be easy to overlook servicing your boat trailer. Other than the lights, brakes, and tires you may not give it much thought. One of the most important components on your boat trailer, the wheel bearings, should be on your list of regular maintenance items. Bearing failure can prevent you from trailering your boat or leave you stranded on the side of the road. 

Boat trailer bearings require more frequent maintenance than those found on a regular trailer due to water exposure. 

In this article, you will learn about the importance of proper boat trailer bearing maintenance, and how to perform the service at home!

How Often Should I Grease Boat Trailer Bearings?

There isn’t a hard and fast rule on how often you should service the bearings. The way you use your trailer impacts how frequently you should service the bearings.

If you trailer your boat to and from the water every time you go out, the bearings are exposed to water a lot more frequently. If you don’t keep your boat at a marina all summer, you should service your bearings a minimum of once a year.

If you go out infrequently or keep you boat at a marina, you can probably get away with servicing them every two years. 

How to Grease Boat Trailer Bearings

It’s easy to service the bearings on your boat trailer at home. With a bit of mechanical knowledge and a willingness to get a little greasy, you can perform this service in your driveway in an afternoon!

Secure the Trailer

Before beginning the project, make sure to secure the trailer. The safest way to do this in your driveway is to hook the trailer up to your truck, put it in park, and chock the wheels with a cinderblock, block of wood, or wheel chock. Be sure you are working on the flattest surface possible.

Jack Up the Trailer and Remove the Wheels

Break the lugs loose on the wheel while it’s still on the ground. Using a floor jack, jack the trailer up enough to get the wheel off the ground. If you have a dual-axle trailer, do one wheel at a time per side.

Remove the Dust Cap

Dust caps prevent contaminants from entering the bearing. To service the bearings themselves, the dust caps need to come off. Using a flathead screwdriver, gently pry the cap off. You can use a hammer or mallet to lightly tap the screwdriver if needed.

If your trailer has Bearing Buddy’s or bearing protectors, a screwdriver will not work for removing them. Instead, gently tap the bearing protector while rotating the hub, and they should come off.

Remove Cotter Pin and Spindle Nut

With the dust cap off, you will see a spindle nut with a cotter pin going through it. remove the cotter pin with plyers. Once the nut is off, you can remove the hub -and the bearings contained within it- from the spindle.

Remove the Bearings 

With the hub off, you can remove the bearing components. They shouldn’t require much force to remove as long as they are not severely rusted or corroded. The front bearing seal can be removed with a seal puller or a screwdriver (the seal will be replaced, so you don’t need to worry about damaging it). With the seal removed, the bearing components will come out easily. To remove the rear bearings, a block of wood can be placed through the hub and tapped, pushing both the bearing and seal out.

The bearings themselves are contained in a metal ring called a race, which will come out of the hub with it

Clean and Inspect the Bearings 

Now that the bearings are out of the hub, it’s time to clean them up. Using a rag, wipe off any excess grease. Using a solvent like kerosene, wash the components clean and inspect them for any rust, corrosion, or damage.

Pack the Bearings with Grease

You can pack bearings by hand or with a packing tool. A bearing packer makes the job far less messy but isn’t required. To do it by hand, take a palm full of high-temperature grease and begin working it into the bearing. Keep doing this until the cage and rollers are filled. Be sure to grease the inside of the hub as well as the bearing races.

Install the Bearings in the Hub

With the bearings packed, you can install them back into the hub. Place the rear bearing into the race and insert it into the back of the hub, followed by the seal.

Take the hub and slide it back over the spindle, with the bearing you just installed going on first. Next, insert the front bearing and race, followed by the washer and nut. If you are having trouble, using a large socket and a hammer can help get the rear bearing flush with the hub. 

Secure, Tighten, and Finish

Using a wrench, tighten the spindle nut to seat the bearings. Next, loosen the nut with the wrench and tighten it again with your fingers – it should only be finger-tight so the hub can rotate freely. Install a new cotter pin and lock the nut in place. Replace the dust cap and that’s it, you’re done!

Boat Trailer Bearing Service at Matson Point S

If you’d rather a professional service your boat trailer, make an appointment at Matson Point S! Our marine specialists will ensure your trailer is ready to go, and won’t leave you stranded on the side of the road on the way to the lake. 

Cooling systems in car and truck engines are all the same. Coolant is cycled through the engine block, heater core, water pump, and radiator, removing excess heat from the engine and preventing overheating.   

On the other hand, boats utilize two distinct types of cooling systems. In this article, we will go over how boat engines stay cool when you are out on the water!  

What Does the Cooling System Do?  

Internal combustion engines generate power with thousands of tiny explosions per minute, and all that combustion puts off lots of heat.   

With no place to go, all that heat would quickly lead to lots of issues, from a blown head gasket to catastrophic engine damage. Cooling systems solve this problem by cycling a liquid (antifreeze or water) through the engine block with a pump. The coolant absorbs heat from the motor, and then passes through a heat exchanger, allowing it to dissipate.  

While variations of this system are used across all internal combustion engines, there are some differences in the way boat motors are cooled.   

Raw Water Cooling  

Most small boats use a cooling system called raw water cooling. Unlike cars and trucks, boats operate in an unlimited supply of cold liquid, a lake or river! Raw water systems take advantage of this by continuously drawing water from the lake, pumping it through the engine, and expelling the hot water back out.   

A big advantage of raw water systems is simplicity. A rubber impeller pulls water from the lake or river, and expels it out through the exhaust. Raw water cooling is used on all outboard motors and many inboard/sterndrive systems.  

Without coolant on board, there is no risk of antifreeze leaking into the body of water a boat is on. This added benefit is a significant reduction in environmental risk, as coolant is extremely toxic to wildlife.  

Enclosed Cooling System  

In marine applications, an enclosed cooling system uses a combination of internally circulating coolant and raw water to keep the engine cool. Much like a car or truck, an engine with enclosed cooling has a reservoir of antifreeze that circulates through the engine. Unlike a car or truck, however, the coolant passes through a heat exchanger which is cooled by a separate raw water system instead of a radiator cooled by air.   

Enclosed cooling systems are more complicated than raw water but offer performance advantages. Enclosed cooling systems are more effective at cooling the engine, allowing it to operate at higher temperatures safely.   

Additionally, enclosed cooling is beneficial for boats operating in salt water. Keeping saltwater separate from the engine prevents corrosion and extends the life of the motor.   

Marine Engine Cooling Maintenance  

No matter what cooling system your boat has, regular maintenance is essential. If something goes wrong and your engine overheats, the repair bill can get expensive quickly. Raw water systems will require periodic impeller replacements and proper winterization every year to prevent cold weather damage.   

For boats with enclosed cooling, it is important to check and replace the raw water impeller if needed and make sure there is no buildup or corrosion preventing water flow in the heat exchangers. This is especially important for boats that operate in salt water, whether it is the ocean or the Great Salt Lake.   

Marine Service and Repair at Matson Point S  

Matson Point S is your go-to boat repair shop in the Salt Lake Valley. Our facility in Riverton is staffed with some of the most skilled marine technicians in Utah. You can trust our team to handle all your marine services, from general maintenance to diagnoses and parts replacement. Give us a call or schedule an appointment online today! 

Utah is best known for its winter activities and national parks. After all, we have the “greatest snow on earth” in the Wasatch Range and world-famous parks like Arches and Canyon Lands in the south. These attractions bring in lots of visitors and keep locals from leaving.

Outdoor activities in Utah aren’t just limited to wintertime and national parks. Our state has some great lakes that provide ample space to get out on your boat and explore. Whether you like water sports, fishing, or just cruising on the water, Utah’s lakes provide ample water space for all activities. In this article, we’re going over some of the best lakes in Utah to go boating!

Lake Powell

Lake Powell is a reservoir in southern Utah, right on the border with Arizona. A series of narrow channels cut through the desert, Lake Powell offers stunning views of high red stone cliffs and arches.

Lake Powell is a man-made reservoir located in Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. It has an average depth of 132 feet and is home to fish including bass, crappie, catfish, carp, brown trout, and more. Being in southern Utah, you can expect warm water temperatures of around 70-80 degrees in the summer.

Lake Powell has several large marinas. Wahweap Marina is the largest on the lake and is located in Page Arizona. Bullfrog Marina, the second largest, can be found on the Utah side, located in Hanksville.  

Depending on where you live, it can be a bit of a drive to get to Lake Powell. The closest major cities are St. George and Cedar City, both of which are 150 miles away. If you live in the Salt Lake or Utah County area, expect a drive of over 350 miles. While Lake Powell may not be ideal for a weekend trip, a long vacation here can be perfect.  

Bear Lake

You can find Bear Lake on Utah’s Northern border with Idaho. Sometimes called the “Caribbean of the Rockies” due to its turquoise-colored waters, Bear Lake offers incredible views to visitors, whether you are sitting on the shore or out on the water. The lake has an average depth of 94 feet and over 69,000 acres of surface area. Services can be found at State Marina, Marina Rentals, and North Beach Rentals.

Bear Lake’s location in northern Utah means the water temperature is colder. In the summer, you can expect the water to be around 55-65 degrees. For fishermen, the lake houses cutthroat trout, lake trout, Bonneville whitefish, Bonneville cisco, and Bear Lake whitefish. The latter three species are endemic to Bear Lake, meaning it’s the only place in the world they can be caught!

Northern Utah cities like Ogden and Logan are closest to Bear Lake, with 40-mile and 87-mile drives respectively. If you live in Salt Lake City or Utah Country, the drive to Bear Lake is well over 100 miles.

Flaming Gorge

Located in the Uintah’s in eastern Utah near the border with Wyoming, Flaming Gorge is nestled in the Ashley National Forest. This man-made reservoir is named for the orange and red rock colors surrounding the water.

The water in Flaming Gorge ranges from 60-68 degrees in the summer. The reservoir has an average depth of 212 feet and is home to 9 species of fish, including Kokanee salmon, brown trout, rainbow trout, smallmouth bass, and burbot.

This reservoir is pretty far from most major cities in Utah (203 miles from Salt Lake City, 194 miles from Ogden, 183 miles from Park City) but its remoteness is part of the draw. If you live in Vernal or Naples, the drive is much shorter, only around 40 miles.

Once you are at Flaming Gorge, services can be found at Cedar Springs and Lucerne Valley marinas. The lake offers 42,000 acres of surface area and camping in the surrounding forest.

Jordanelle Reservoir 

So far, the lakes on this list have been a significant distance away from the Salt Lake Valley, meaning for a large portion of Utahans, a planned multi-day trip is often required to visit them. Jordanelle Reservoir is located in Wasatch County, only 10 miles from Park City and less than 40 miles from Salt Lake City.

The reservoir is home to yellow perch, smallmouth, and largemouth bass, as well as rainbow and brown trout. It has an average depth of 109 feet. Due to its elevation and water supply coming from snow melt, the water can be colder, usually below 70 degrees.

Jordanelle Rentals and Marina offers boat, kayak, and jet ski rentals. The reservoir is located in Jordanelle State Park, which offers camping and hiking in addition to lake activities.

Utah Lake

Located in Utah County, Utah Lake is a shallow body of water only a few miles from Provo and Orem. Despite having a maximum depth of 14 feet, its proximity to the surrounding cities makes it a popular destination.

You can catch Bullhead and Channel catfish, Common carp, walleye, and more in Utah Lake.

Several marinas around the lake offer rental services, boat launches, and picnic areas.

Conclusion

This is far from an exhaustive list. Utah has many more lakes to explore, but these are some of the most popular, and for good reason. No matter where you live in the state, you aren’t too far from great boating.

Marine Service at Matson Point S

Matson Point S is the Salt Lake Valley’s best marine service shop. Our experienced boat technicians can handle everything from general maintenance to in-depth repairs. Need some work done before you head out for a weekend on one of Utah’s lakes? Give us a call or schedule an appointment online today!

Outside temperature can have a significant impact on tire pressure. When it’s cold out, the pressure can decrease so much that you get a tire pressure warning light. In this article, we will go over why and how temperature affects tire pressure, and what you can do to keep your tires properly inflated.

How Does Temperature Impact Tire Pressure?

Cold air takes up less volume than hot air. When it’s cold out, you can expect a 1-2 PSI drop for every 10 degrees the temperature goes down.

When the temperature is warm, air expands and takes up more volume. The

air pressure in your tires will increase by 1-2 PSI for every 10 degrees the temperature goes up.

How to Deal with Temperature-Related Low Tire Pressure

Regularly checking your tire pressure and adding air as needed is the best way to prevent underinflated tires, regardless of the outside temperature.

Check Tire Pressure Regularly

Tire pressure gauges are inexpensive and are available at most auto parts stores. Checking tire pressure is easy. Simply remove the valve stem cap on the wheel and place the gauge on the end of the valve. Depending on the style of the gauge, you will get a digital or analog readout telling you the air pressure in your tire.

The best time to check the pressure is when the tires are cold. Driving heats up the air in your tires, and as we learned above, hot air takes up more volume. 

Tire pressure will increase around one PSI every five minutes for the first 15-20 minutes you are on the road. Wait at least two to three hours after driving before checking tire pressure. 

Add Air When Necessary 

Most people do not have a way to add air to their tires at home. Given that the air pressure in your tires will change while you drive, you should write down the reading you got when the tires were cold. When you get to a gas station or service center, add air to the tires based on the cold reading.

How Much Air Pressure Do My Tires Need?

If you are unsure what PSI your tires should be, you can find this information on a panel or sticker on the driver’s door jamb. Add air and re-check until the tires are at the recommended PSI.

Is it Bad to Drive on Underinflated Tires?

Yes! Driving on underinflated tires can lead to poor handling, faster tread wear, and reduced fuel economy.

Tire Service at Matson Point S

While temperature impacts tire pressure, if you are topping off a tire multiple times a month, a leak or puncture may be to blame. You can trust Matson Point S for all your tire needs, from flat repair to tire replacement. Give us a call or schedule an appointment at our shop in Riverton, Utah today!

Most of the time, when you are shopping for new tires, the service advisory you are speaking to can pull up your information and easily tell you the size of the tires on your car. Unless you are an enthusiast or buy your tires online, you probably haven’t given tire size much thought. That being said, you may run into a situation, like getting a flat, where you need to know your tire size. Finding this information is easy as long as you know where to look and what to look for. In this guide, we are going to tell you how to figure out the size of your tires quickly and easily when they are on your car!

Where Can I Find My Tire Size?

Sizing information is found on the sidewall of your tire. It will be presented as a series of numbers and letters, typically presented in the following format: P235/45R 17. You may see another number and letter combination after this, which represents the tire speed and load rating that we cover in a separate article.

How Do I Read Tire Sizing?

Providing this number to a professional will be all the information they need to find the right tires for your car. You don’t need to know what each number means, but if you are curious, keep reading and we will cover what these numbers mean next.

How are Tires Sized?

Tire sizing is split into three categories, each describing a different part of the tire’s dimensions. The categories are width, aspect ratio (A/R), and wheel diameter. We are going to break down what each category stands for below.

Tire Width

The first number is the width of the tread, which is the part of the tire that contacts the road. In the above example size, “235” means that the tire has a width of 235 millimeters.

Tire Aspect Ratio (A/R)

The second number represents the aspect ratio or the height of the sidewall. The sidewall is measured as a percentage of the tread width. In the above example, the number 35 after the slash means the tire’s sidewall height is 35% of the tread width. A lower aspect ratio correlates with a lower profile tire.

Wheel Diameter

The final number in the sequence represents the diameter of the wheel the tire is mounted on in inches. In the above example tire, the 17 indicates the tire fits on a 17-inch wheel.

What Do the Letters Mean?

You probably noticed the letters mixed into the size numbers. The first letter represents tire type, and the second number indicates the construction.

Tire Type

The very first letter(s) in the tire sizing represents the intended market and vehicle type for the tire. In the above example, P stands for P-Metric, which means the tire meets passenger car standards in the United States.

If you see “LT”, the tire is intended for use on light trucks and will often have higher pressure requirements than P-rated tires.

If a size rating has no starting letter, it is a European Metric tire. There are some differences in load capacity between European and P-Metric tires.

Tire Construction

Unless you are dealing with trailer tires, you will almost only see an “R”, which stands for radial construction. This article goes over the other types of tire construction out there.

Matson Point S is Your Source for Tires!

Our tire shop in Riverton is ready to help you with your next tire purchase, no matter the size! In addition to tires, we offer full-service auto repair and maintenance. Whatever your automotive needs, the team at Matson Point S will keep you moving. Call or schedule an appointment online today!